How to uninstall sink disposal

Remove the garbage disposal. Some models will unscrew from the sink drain while others might have a snap ring. To remove the snap ring insert a flat-head screwdriver under the ring to pry it open and off the flange. Make sure to hold the underside of the garbage disposal with your hand while removing. They are very heavy! You may want to put rags on the bottom of your cabinet as protection; in case the disposal drops this will protect your cabinet floor from damage.

Detach the mounting assembly. Remove the mounting assembly by first loosening the three mounting screws that hold the upper and lower rings apart. Remove the ring that is in a groove on the sink sleeve and then remove the sink sleeve, flange and fiber gasket.

Clean out any remaining sealing gaskets, plumber's putty, or debris from the sink opening. If you are replacing your disposal with the same disposal then you can leave the mounting assembly. Part 2. Use this method if you have removed your garbage disposal and do not wish to install a new one.

This will install a new sink drain and connect the drain to the waste pipes, allowing wastewater to drain directly from the sink into the drainpipes.

Remove the nut securing the drain flange to remove the sink drain. Use a pipe wrench to loosen and remove the nut securing the drain flange. Then you can push the sink drain up through the sink for removal. Clean the putty around the drain hole with a putty knife. Scrape the putty off using the putty knife. If the putty is very hard and difficult to remove then you should use a razor to remove the excess.

After cleaning off the chunks of putty use a scrubbing pad and water to scrub the area clean. If the putty is too difficult to remove, use rubbing alcohol or spirits to remove the putty.

The rope should be long enough to go around the circumference of the drain. Place it on the underside lip of the drain and then set the drain into the sink opening. Press the drain down firmly and wipe away excess putty. Secure the flat washer to the underside of the drain. The drain will come with a washer when it is purchased.

Move to the underside of the drain and place the washer over the threads and secure with the large nut that comes with your drain. Tighten the nut as securely as possible using tongue-and-groove pliers. It may help to have someone hold the drain from the top so it does not move around.

Remove excess putty after securing the drain. Find the PVC drain tailpiece. This will connect the drain to the elbow pipe. It should be long enough that it is at the same level of the pipe it needs to be connected to. Hand-tighten the tailpiece to the sink drain to secure the piece. Attach the elbow pipe to the tailpiece. Attach the pieces together to create the bend in the pipe directing towards the adjacent sink.

Connect the connector pipe to the elbow and the adjacent sink. Use the connector pipe to connect the elbow piece to the T-fitting on the adjacent sink. The connector piece might need to be cut down to the correct length depending on your sink. Use the nuts and washers provided with your pipes to secure the pieces together using the tongue-and-groove pliers. Part 3. Use this method if you have removed your garbage disposal and want to replace it with a newly purchased garbage disposal.

If you are installing a garbage disposal of the same brand then you could keep the mounting bracket on the sink drain rather than removing it.

Place a rubber seal on the underside of the drain flange. The rubber seal will usually come with your new disposal. You can simply wrap it around the flange and then put the drain flange in the drain hole. You will need to use putty if your disposal does not include a rubber seal. Place another rubber seal on the drain flange on the underside of the sink and attach the metal backup ring. Use another of the provided seals on the drain flange on the underside of the sink.

Attach the metal backup ring flat side up by pushing over the underside of the drain flange underneath the sink. Attach the mounting ring. First loosely attach the mounting ring with three screws. Then secure the mounting ring with the snap ring, which snaps into place. Finally tighten the three screws, making sure the assembly is tight and even. The mounting bracket is now attached and ready for the new garbage disposal.

Prepare the new disposal. Turn the disposal upside down and shake it to remove anything inside. Remove the electrical plate and pull the wires away from the disposal. Screw the strain relief sleeve into place and feed the electrical wires through it into the disposal. If you are connecting the disposal to a dishwasher, then you must remove the knock out plug using a hammer and screwdriver.

Connect the electrical wires. On many disposals you will connect the ground wire to the green screw on the disposal, and then splice the white wires to white wires and black to black. Secure the connections with wire nuts and tighten the strain relief sleeve. Replace the cover plate on the disposal. Lift the disposal up onto the mounting bracket and lock into place. Lift up the disposal and push it into the mounting bracket. Then turn the locking ring until all three housing pins catch.

Tighten the locking ring as far as possible, using slip-joint pliers to finish tightening. You should hear the pins snap into place. Attach the pipes. You will attach a degree disposal drainpipe to the disposal and the tailpiece to the other sink drain. There should be p-traps on both the disposal and the tailpiece from the other sink and they should be level to one another.

Use straight pipes and a T-fitting to connect both drains into one line and route the drainpipes into the main drain. Dry fit the pieces together at first. Connect the pipes using PVC glue on both the outside of the pipe and inside of the fitting. PVC glue will melt the material a little to give a strong weld.

Connect the dishwasher drain line. If you are running the drain from a dishwasher through the disposal then you must connect the pipe to the disposal at the spot where you knocked out a plug previously. Turn on the sink to let water through. Turn on the sink and let water run through the pipes for several minutes to make sure nothing is leaking. This can prevent many problems in the future with leaks so make sure you test your pipes.

Turn the power back on. Flip the circuit switch back on at the electrical service panel to power up the disposal. If all works correctly then the installation is finished. Part 4. Troubleshoot the garbage disposal if it has stopped working. Check to see that your garbage disposal actually needs to be replaced. If the disposal is not making a humming noise then the problem may simply be electrical and can be checked. If it makes a humming sound but does not work, then it may be stuck or need the sub-breaker reset.

Make sure the disposal is plugged in. While this may seem obvious, make sure that your disposal is plugged in properly. Press the rest button on the bottom of the disposal. This resets the garbage disposal and will pop out if it has reset. It will make a click as it goes back in. Check the outlet circuit breaker. Check to see that the circuit breaker has not tripped and turned off in the electrical service panel or breaker box. All the switches should be fully on at the fuse box. Replace the circuit breaker switch.

If nothing else has worked then either there is a faulty switch or a faulty garbage disposal. Replace the switch to test if that is the problem by first turning off the circuit breaker at the service panel. Then replace the switch and turn power back on at the service panel. If none of these steps is effective, then the disposal will have to be replaced.

If the source is not a connection from above then your disposal needs to be replaced. Try cupping your hands around the very top under the sink while running water. The ring that seals the gasket turns clockwise to tighten. The only other repairable leak would be where the piping comes out the side. There can also be a smaller dishwasher drain hose above that. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 4. Can I remove a garbage disposal and add a hose that goes to the sewer in its place?

You need to replace it with a strainer basket assembly, tailpipe and additional piping to meet up with the existing piping. The trap or U bend is essential to prevent sewer gas from backing up into your home. Not Helpful 3 Helpful 8. Where do I attach the dishwasher hose once I have removed the garbage disposal? Does it have to be fed just before the pipe goes into the wall?

No, there are special tailpipes with a fitting for this. Bypassing the trap can allow sewer gas into your home. A beep or LED light indicates there's voltage. No beep or no light means there's no voltage coming from the box. There will be a drain pipe extending from the side of the garbage disposal to the drain on the adjacent sink. It will be secured with slotted screws.

Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove it from the disposal. If you have a dishwasher, you will need to detach a dishwasher hose from the disposal. A snap ring secures the garbage disposal to the mounting bracket. Slide a flat-head screwdriver under the snap ring to pry it open and off the flange.

Since there is a chance the screwdriver will slip as you're working, you may want to wear work gloves for this step. Use caution as the garbage disposal comes loose. It will be heavy. You might want to place clean rags or towels below the dishwasher to protect the floor.

Once the disposal is out of the way, remove the mounting bracket. It will be attached by three Phillips-head screws. Unscrew it from the bottom of the sink. Use a pipe wrench to carefully loosen then remove the nut securing the drain flange.

You will then be able to push the sink drain portion up through the sink for removal. Use a putty knife to clean up the plumbers putty from around the drain hole. You may need to use a razor blade for stubborn bits. Then rub down the area with a scrubbing pad and water. If any putty remains, you may need to scrub the area with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits.

Place the rope around the underside lip of the drain. Set the drain into the sink opening, and press down firmly. Wipe away any excess plumber's putty. Your new sink drain will come with a flat washer. From underneath the sink, place the washer over the drain's threads, and press it up against the bottom of the sink.

Use the large retaining nut that came with your new sink drain to secure the drain. You'll be able to hand-tighten it to a point, but you must secure it firmly with channel-lock pliers. At this point you may want to ask a helper to hold the sink drain down tightly against the sink. Or you can place enough weight bags of sand, flour, sugar, anything heavy on top of the drain.

Locate the PVC drain tail piece. Measure it to ensure that it drops the correct height for installing the elbow and connector pipe to the T-fitting under the adjacent sink.

If necessary, trim with a fine-tooth hacksaw. Once you've achieved a good fit, hand-tighten the tail piece to the sink drain. You can use plumber's tape to ensure a watertight seal, but it's not a requirement. Attach the elbow fitting to the tail pipe.