Flywheel install

To maintain the performance and reliability of the flywheel, it should be inspected whenever possible. Watch for fatigue cracks in the following areas, 1 crankshaft register diameter, 2 between the flywheel bolt holes, and 3 between the weight reduction holes if applicable.

To maintain optimum clutch performance, use a straight edge and feeler gauge to check the friction surface for flatness. For most racing clutches, this surface should be flat within.

Aluminum flywheels use a steel insert heat shield for the friction surface. This insert is heat treated and should not be resurfaced. Inserts are easily replaced and should not affect the balance of the flywheel. Use a marker and pieces of tape to designate the proper locations of the bolts and assembly for the flexplate-to-torque converter and unscrew the bolts. Unscrew the transaxle mount-to-body fastening bolts, using a torque wrench.

Make sure any connections, hoses or wiring between the engine and transaxle are completely unfastened before lowering the vehicle. Use a marker to mark the position of the flywheel on the crankshaft. Use a torque wrench to unscrew the flywheel mounting bolts, then remove the flywheel and its shim or spacer if it is equipped with one.

Use thread locking glue to coat the bolts of the flywheel as you install the new one. Hand tighten the flywheel mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts in an alternating star pattern, so that bolts opposite from each other on the bolt circle are tightened one after another. The mounting bolts should be tightened using a torque wrench to 22 foot-pounds on a 2. Tighten the transaxle bolts and fasteners according to the specifications for your year and model.

For a Chevy Malibu, the transaxle-to-engine mounting bolts should be tightened to 99 foot-pounds. The flexplate-to-torque converter should be tightened to 46 foot-pounds and the converter shield to 18 foot-pounds. The transaxle-to-engine brace bolts should be tightened to 32 foot-pounds. How to Replace the Flywheel on an Automatic Transmission. Park the vehicle on a level floor. Jack up the front, then the back, of the car to place one jack stand under four supporting frame points to carry the vehicle at least 24 inches off the ground to replace the flywheel on an automatic transmission.

Lift the hood of the vehicle and remove the red positive battery cable from the positive post of the automotive battery. Pull the loose cable end away from the battery and secure in place when you replace the flywheel on an automatic transmission. Separate the drive shaft from the rear of the automatic transmission. For rear-wheel drive vehicles this involves disconnecting the universal joint where it secures to the rear axle yolk. Remove the two U-bolts and turn the axle until the universal jointsfrees from the yoke.

Pull the drive shaft out of the tail housing of the transmission and place off to the side. Loosen and remove the torque converter bolts that secure the transmission to the flywheel on an automatic transmission. Six bolts, three short and three long, will need to be removed with the use of one or two closed-end spanner wrenches.

Each bolt should be loosened before being removed to eliminate pressure being applied to the remaining bolts unevenly after most have been removed. Protect the parts that are still good by using this procedure for all fasteners that have multiple securing points that need to be tighten or loosened evenly when you replace the flywheel on an automatic transmission. Place the floor jack under the vehicle and raise the lifting arm up to the bottom of the transmission fluid pan.

Place a piece of plywood between the pan and the lifting arm to protect the pan when lifting and lowering. Lift the floor jack high enough to press upwards on the transmission, which will take some of the weight off the transmission mount and cross member bolts. Loosen the transmission mount bolts and cross-member fasteners that secure the cross member to the car. With the cross member removed and the transmission mounts loosened, the remaining bell housing bolts are all that hold the transmission to the engine block.

Always be aware of the weight distribution on the floor jack and adjust to center correctly throughout the remaining process of removing the automatic transmission to replace a flywheel. Disconnect the speed sensor, the shifter linkage and the transmission temperature gauge using small spanner wrenches and pliers to pull the shifter linkage cotter pin.

Wires that connect to an automatic transmission either have a plastic pull adapter or an eyelet that sits over a small stud in the side of the transmission.

Separate these connections, and you can move on to the final bolts that hold the automatic transmission in place and get to the flywheel to replace it with a new one. Pull the transmission bell housing bolts after removing the one that secures the transmission fill tube in place. Normally this bolt is located at 1 o'clock and has the fill tube bracket held in place.

Remove this bolt entirely and pull the transmission fill tube out from the transmission from within the engine compartment.

Store all bolts and pieces off to the side until installation is required when you replace the flywheel. Remove all the transmission bell housing bolts after each has been loosened until they are all out. Log in. Install the app. Forums Engines Predator JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.

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Flywheel Install. Thread starter Shamelessbullet Start date Aug 10, Shamelessbullet New member. So I think I'm going to install my Billet flywheel this weekend. I know there's all the fancy stuff where u buy a timing light and a degree wheel and I'm really not looking to be super technical on this. I've read that stuff isn't really necessary. So here's my game plan so far.

I've watched some tutorials and so far I've concluded this: 1. Put the old key back in make sure its parallel to the actual crank itself not planning to add a aftermarket key because the billet flywheel is already advanced by 8 5. Put the new flywheel on 6. Torque the flywheel nut. Now this is where I have some questions. But how do I know when the flywheel is in the position it needs to be in when I'm torqueing it? Please correct me if I'm wrong on anything. Also, does anyone have any tips on keeping the flywheel still while torqueing it?

Last edited: Aug 10, JPR57 Site Supporter. This should help I don't understand all the timing stuff quite yet.

So all I have to do is line up the magneto with the magnets on the flywheel. Also, do I get to get one of those timing wheels.